Cruise the Cyclades aboard a boutique yacht

The Peloponnese and Cyclades islands are the ideal destination for those looking for sun and sand, but also history, culture and a gastronomy that will captivate you. Departing from Athens aboard an exclusive boutique yacht of just 50 passengers, the wonders of this country are best discovered

Hydra, the quiet island

The tiny crescent-shaped harbour of Hydra is only suitable for small boats, a feature that works in its favour, because this small island of just 50 km2would not support an avalanche of cruisers.Hydra is all white, with picturesque low houses and narrow cobbled lanes where motor vehicles are forbidden, an attractive attraction for travellers, who can watch their luggage being loaded onto carts or directly onto the backs of donkeys to be transported to their accommodation.

Its close location to the Greek capital just three hours from Athens- and its timeless beauty made it the perfect hideaway for celebrities and the jet-setin the 1960s: 400;” data-mce-style=”font-weight: 400;”>in the 1960s.But when the word got out, its beaches were full of tourists. Despite this, its mountainous terrain has prevented excessive construction, protecting its status as a quiet island. It has also saved the old and stately houses that were designed and built by Genoese and Venetian architects in its less touristy part.  .

Gastronomy is limited here – due to the size of the island – but that’s not a problem. Any of the tavernas -restaurants in Greek- serve fresh fish of the day and refreshing salads, always with a side of ouzoouzoas an appetizer. Most are located along the seafront, facing the harbour. If you prefer something more intimate, you’ll find it by wandering through the network of small streets that lead you through small squares covered with vine canopies and balconied corners adorned with lush flowers. And if you want to feel like the jet-setters of the ’60s, stop by the Omilosrestaurant, the former Lagoudera club, a favourite haunt of Brigitte Bardot, Jackie O., Elizabeth Taylor, Maria Callas, John Lennon….

Weather permitting, it’s a good idea to hike up to the Orthodox monastery of Profitis Ilias, still inhabited by monks and located high above the island.

Nafplion, the island that isn’t

The next stop is Nafplion, Greece’s first capital – a privilege that lasted only a few years. Most of the old town sits on a peninsula that juts out into the gulf and creates a naturally sheltered bay. At first glance it may seem like an island, but Nafplion is part of the Peloponnese. Its climate – the mildest in the country – and its easy accessibility by road have made it the favourite weekend destination for Athenians in winter.

Its architecture is reminiscent of the Plaka district of Athens, with the Syntagma Square (of the Constitution) as its nerve centre.All around it are several historic buildings: the First Parliament, the Trianon -former Turkish mosque converted into a theatre and cinema-and the archaeological museum. Nearby are the churches of Agios Spyridonas and of Agios Georgios. Of the latter, its greatest attraction lies in the murals, especially the reproduction of ‘The Last Supper’ by Leonardo da Vinci. .

The Calle Mayor, smaller than its name might suggest, is the busiest street, as it is lined with shops and taverns. However, it is preferable – as always – to lose oneself in the suggestive and more authentic perpendicular alleys that emerge from this long road. Here the exuberant bougainvillea add a touch of colour and also serve as awnings.

To wander around Nafplion you need to be in good shape, as the town climbs up the mountainside on which it sits. Luckily, that means that anywhere makes a good vantage point. However, locals say that the best views are from Palamidi Castle, the highest point in town, at just 216m above sea level. The climb can be exhausting in the heat of the day, but it’s worth the effort. After almost a thousand steps, there’s no excuse not to try one of the best ice creams in the world at the Antica Gelateria di Roma  located very close to Syntagma Square.

On the sea, facing the harbour, is Bourtzi, a Venetian castle built on a small island. It was originally a Byzantine church dedicated to St Theodore, then a fortress, an executioner’s quarters and a hotel. Today it is the venue for cultural events. It is open to the public for visits, but can only be reached by boat, as the Turks built an underwater barrier of rocks around it to prevent attack by large ships.

Monemvasia, the mini peninsula

Monemvasia is a fortified town on a huge promontory – a small peninsula – that was used as a refuge by the Greeks of the Byzantine Empire fleeing invasions by Slavic peoples. A bridge is the only point of connection with the Laconian coast, hence its namemoni- (‘alone, unique’) and émvasís (‘entrance’). Its original structure has been preserved in perfect condition, with its stone cottages, the charming (and steep) arched cobbled alleys, up to 40 Byzantine churches, characterised by their round domes and the Venetian citadel walls..

Although your legs should be used to the slopes by now, the heat is sure to get hot, so a technical stop for a  frapuccino under the vines on a terrace overlooking the sea. Before returning to the boat, there is time for a swim and lunch at a beach bar overlooking Monemvasia. This is the time to try some of the more refreshing specialities of Greek cuisine, such as Greek salad with feta cheese, the dolmadas (little bags of grape leaves stuffed with rice and lemon sauce), the tzatziki (yoghurt cream with garlic and cucumber) and a good plate of octopus or freshly grilled fish.

Santorini, the most iconic island

It is not easy to get an idea of the magnitude of the explosion of the volcano that destroyed the first villages on Santorini and which made much of the territory of the ancient island disappear, dividing it into six and transforming it into a circular archipelago whose centre is the huge caldera. You’ll see it more clearly when you reach Fira, the capital, perched on the edge of a cliff 260 metres above the sea, and catch a glimpse of the circular crater today flooded by water.

To get up to the town there are two options: take a comfortable cable car that will take you to Fira in just five minutes, or put your riding skills to the test by hopping on the back of a donkey that will take you up a steep, zigzagging path of almost 600 steps for a 20-minute ascent. This four-legged mode of transport is in high demand, but not for the squeamish.

Fira gives us the most picturesque image of Greece, the one we all have in mind when we think of the Greek islands: little white houses with blue-painted doors and windows – and the occasional lonely cat lounging on the bartola. However, the postcard we’re looking for also includes blue domes and views over the sea.It is very close, 12 kilometres away, the distance that separates us from Oia. This little village oozes charm from every one of its stones, which are not few.

Everywhere you look, you’ll see pristine whitewashed cottages with details in some colour: blood red, indigo blue, mustard yellow… The blue domes of the Orthodox churches stand out against the blue of the Mediterranean, adding other geometric shapes to the landscape.

These picturesque cottages are the most expensive on the island, though when they were built they once belonged to poor fishermen who couldn’t afford to buy land on the other side of the mountain, where they would be safe in case the volcano erupted. The spectacular sunsets are a must-see, where nature shows us an immense palette of colours before the sun dips below the horizon.

Mykonos, feel like a jet-setter

Although frequented by celebrities such as Johnny Depp, Lady Gaga and Armani, it is  Petros, the island’s mascot, a pelican who arrived on the island in the 1950s after being forced to change his route due to a storm. Adopted by a fisherman, the seabird felt so at home that he never wanted to leave. Its fame and confidence grew in tandem, so it liked to appear on the beach or in the street to be admired. Today, in the same exhibitionist mood as his predecessor, we can see Petrus II.

Unlike the other Cycladic islands, Mykonos is fairly flat, so to protect itself from the sieges of pirates like Barbarossa, to which it was subjected for years, its streets were designed with a labyrinth-like structure, so that the locals could easily hide in case of attack. That’s why it’s the perfect place to get lost – literally. The characteristic blue-domed churches (more than 400 across the island), the narrow streets of whitewashed houses with brightly coloured doors and windows and the flowers decorating the balconies are the perfect Cycladic scene.

If you stray a little off the busy arteries – where clothing and craft shops, bars, ice cream parlours, art galleries proliferate – you’ll find yourself wandering through virtually deserted streets, except for the odd retired fisherman savouring a fag or an old lady leaning out on the balcony of her house.

Life in the Alefkandra neighbourhood goes on at a leisurely pace, as if unaware that Mykonos has become one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations since Jackie Onassis was captivated by the island in the 1960s. The Greek shipowner’s wife appreciated its magnificent beaches, iconic windmills and picturesque neighbourhood of Alefkándra, better known as ‘Little Venice’. This name was given to it because of the houses built on the seafront, with balconies and porticoes suspended over the water that create the illusion of a Venetian canal. Today, these buildings house original restaurants and cocktail bars where, in the evening, the beautiful people go to dine to regain their strength and face the long night of partying that awaits them.

Practical travel information

• • Vueling has direct flights to Athens from Barcelona, from where Variety Cruises’ cruises depart.
  • Aegeanair.comflies from all major Spanish cities to Athens non-stop from June to November.
  • Variety Cruises  has a large fleet of yachts and sailboats, all of them boutique and with a limited passenger capacity. For 2023, the most similar proposal to the one described above is “Classical Greece”, with embarkation in Athens and calls in Santorini, Mykonos, Delos, Kythira, Hydra, Crete and Monemvasia, from May to September.

Photos: Félix Lorenzo